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Embroidery Floss Storage Book

Embroidery Floss Storage Book

Posted by Shelley Mosley on Apr 21st 2020

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This is a super sweet expandable way to store your embroidery floss. 

Get these instructions for free in a 8-page printable for free in my store Embroidery Floss Storage Book Download or follow along below :) With the download you'll also get a Supply List Worksheet.

FABRIC & SUPPLIES

Choose fabrics for your book components. Cut a swatch and label it. 

Other things you will need (parenthesis indicates nice is you have it)

 Cutting surface (24" x 36" Cutting Mat)

 Ruler (Quilting Rulers 6" x 12" and 24" x 3½" rulers are what I used)

 Heat erasable or water soluble pen or chalk

 Turning tool (I used the “Purple Thang”)

 Scissors (60mm Rotary Cutter)

 Sewing Scissors (stork scissors)

 Iron

The book consists of three parts.

1. Cover (outer)

2. Cover (interior)

3. Inside Pages

We will cut all pieces and stabilize (interface) the pieces that need it.

Then, we will sew each part separately and combine them to create the book.

Here are the steps:


Cut your pieces and label them with the fabric identification tags.

Create a stack of pieces that need to be stabilized (interfaced). Sort the rest by book part (put all the cover (outer) pieces together, cover (interior) pieces together, and pocket pages together).

STABILIZE (INTERFACE)

Let’s talk stabilizer. We need to give the book some structure. Without stabilizers the book would be really floppy.

The light-weight fusible stabilizer (Pellon SF101) is cut to the SAME size as the fabric. We need this structure on the entire piece.

The cut away stabilizer is cut smaller than the fabric. There is no need to add “bulk” to the seams.

Light Weight Stabilizer: Place the stabilizer with the bumpy (glue) side facing the back side of the fabric (linen it doesn’t matter because both sides are the same).

Press (don’t move the iron side to side...just sit it on the fabric) and count to 10. Lift the iron and sit it down on a new location, count to 10. Repeat this until the entire piece has been pressed. Place these pieces in the proper parts pile.

Cut Away Stabilizer: If you chose a mid-weight fusible stabilizer you don’t need to do use heat & bond LITE. If you have a non-fusible stabilizer, we need to “glue” it to the fabric. We do that by using heat & bond LITE. This product is just a layer of glue that you can apply to bind two pieces of fabric together.

Apply the Heat & Bond LITE to the cut away stabilizer.

Let it cool just a few seconds then peel off the paper. Place this glue side down on the WRONG side of the interior cover piece. Center it vertically and horizontally on the interior cover pieces. Center it vertically and leave a gap in the middle on the pages. Press it to allow the glue to melt and adhere to the fabric.

NOTE: You have half the amount of cut away stabilizer for the Pages. The Pages will be sewn together to make a front and a back. You only need to stabilize one side.

Once you're finished stabilizing your fabrics, place these pieces in the proper parts pile.

Sew the cover (outer)

Grab the pile of cover (outer) pieces. (fig. 1)

Wrong sides together, sew the SPINE to the cover FRONT using a 1/4” seam allowance and a 2mm stitch length.

Be sure to lock your stitches at the beginning and the end.

Press the seams toward the spine. Top stitch these seams 1/8” away from both edges using 3mm stitch length. (fig. 2)

Mark Lines & Quilt

Lay the 17" x 10" light weight stabilizer with the glue side (bumpy side) up. Lay the 17" x 10" cotton batting on top of the stabilizer. Lay your cover right side up on top of the batting.

Flip this unit over and iron the light-weight stabilizer to the cotton batting. Flip this unit back over to the right side.

With an erasable marking tool, mark a line ½" from the stitch lines each side of the spine. Mark another line ½" from the one you just drew. (fig 3)

Mark lines for quilting. Lay your ruler where the 45° line is on the bottom of your cover (outer). Draw your quilting line on the cover (outer) fabric. Repeat quilting lines 1½" apart. Do this on the front & back. Don’t mark the spine with these 45° lines.

 

Sew these layers together on your marked lines (quilt).

Trim cover (outer)

We need to trim the cover (outer) to 15 ½" x 9". Before you make your cut, you need to MAKE SURE you have the spine centered.

Take out two sheets of printer paper and tape the 8½" sides together (tape on front & back so it’s not floppy). Cut the paper to be 15½" wide. (fig 4) Don’t worry about the height. Fold the paper in half and make a mark at this center point.

Lay this “template” on the cover and mark the places you need cut. After you have cut the width, trim the height to be 9".

We need to trim the cover (outer) to 15 ½" x 9". Before you make your cut, you need to MAKE SURE you have the spine centered.

Take out two sheets of printer paper and tape the 8½" sides together (tape on front & back so it’s not floppy). Cut the paper to be 15½" wide. (fig 4) Don’t worry about the height. Fold the paper in half and make a mark at this center point.

Lay this “template” on the cover and mark the places you need cut. After you have cut the width, trim the height to be 9".

Set cover (outer) aside. 

Sew the cover (interior)

Grab the pile of cover (interior) pieces (fig. 1)

Grab the pile of cover (interior) pieces. (fig. 1)

Cover Interior Sides Wrong sides together, sew the cover (interior) sides together as indicated (fig. 2) using a 1/4” seam allowance and a 2mm stitch length.

Be sure to lock your stitches at the beginning and the end of each of your sewn sections. Press seam OPEN. Set aside.

Bind the Pockets. Lay the pocket binding strip right-sides together on the top of the pocket piece. Sew ³/8" from the top edge. Press the strip up. Flip the pocket to the wrong side and fold the binding strip to the top of the pocket. Press this in place. Fold the strip down again and make sure it covers the previously stitched line. Pin in place. Turn the pocket to the right side and top stitch (3mm stitch length) the binding in place. Check your work to make sure you caught all the back binding with your stitches.

Prepare division marks. First we need to press the raw edge of one side of each pocket.

Left Pocket Fold over the right side edge ¼". Press it so it will stay folded.

Right Pocket Fold over the left side edge ¼". Press it so it will stay folded.

Mark a line 1/8” away from the fold. Mark 5 more lines each 1 3/8” away from the one before. There should be 3/8” remaining at the end (which will be sewn into the seam when we sew the cover together.) (fig. 3)

Sew Pockets to Cover Interior Sides Lay the marked pockets on the Cover Interior Sides. Be sure to lay them so the folds are toward the center.

Line up the raw side edge with the side edge of the Cover Interior Sides (fig. 4)

Always starting at the TOP, sew each marked line with a 2.5mm stitch length. Lock your stitches at the top really well, go back and forth three (3) or four (4) times. Lock your stitches at the bottom as well but in a normal fashion.

Sew the cover

Lay the Cover (outer) on top of the Cover (Interior) right-sides together.

You might not typically do the next part like I describe, but for best results, please give it a try.

Sew all the way around using a 2mm stitch length and ¼" seam allowance...but before you start sewing...I’m going to ask you not to pivot at the corner. Just sew from top to bottom. Remove your work, turn to the next side and sew from top to bottom (fig. 1). Do this for all four sides. This, in my opinion, will give you the best chance to get the squared corners when you turn it right-side out.

Stick your thumb inside the gap you made on the cover (interior) and find one of the corners. Place your index finger over your thumb on the outside and flip the corner and pull it out the gap. Repeat this for the other corner on this side. Pull a little bit of the cover out then reach in to find the next corner, etc.

If any of the corners give you any trouble, meaning they aren’t square, work on it with a turning tool to get a square corner. Be very careful not to push a hole in your fabric. Work it, but be gentle.

Press your cover

Give your new cover a good press.

Hand-stitch the gap

Sew the "gap" closed using the method of your choice. You might consider using a curved needle. I had a little trouble using a quilting needle. Next time I make one of these books, I'll make sure I have a curved needle on hand.

Sew the inside pages

Grab your pile of inside pages pieces.

Add the binding to each of the pocket pieces.

Mark the pocket pieces 1/4" from the left edge with an erasable pen. Mark 10 more lines 1 3/4" from the one before. There should be 1/4" remaining after the 10th line. (fig 2)

Sew the divisions

Lay the pocket piece on top of the page lining up the bottom and side edges. Sew on your marked division lines with 2.5mm stitch length. Reinforce the top lock stitches three (3) or four (4) times to make it strong. (fig.3)

NOTE: Don’t sew the first line or the last line. These will be sewn when you sew the pages together.

Baste the sides and bottom of the pocket to the page 1/8” with a 5mm stitch length.


Sew the pages together

Pair up the pages...each pair should have one with stabilizer and one without.

Place these pieces right-sides together. Mark a 3" gap at the TOP for turning it right-side out. 

Sew with a 2 mm stitch length and lock your stitches at the beginning and the end. (what I do on this type of closure is I sew up the gap...lock my stitches...pivot and sew locking those stitches as well and sew around. When I get to the other side of the gap...lock my stitches...pivot and sew down the gap. One day when I'm more skilled with video I'll make a video of this to share. When you sew it this way, the gap is really forced to be straight. Again, it's hard to describe in typed words.)  

Turn it right-side out and press flat and press the opening flush with the rest of the page.

Top stitch with a 3 mm stitch length all the way around. Sew close to the edge. 

Sew the inside pages to the cover

You're almost finished! One last step.

Fold your interior pages in half and mark the center with an erasable pen. Mark a line at the top and the bottom of the cover (interior) 1/2" away from the center seam.

Line up the center mark on your pages with the top and bottom mark on the cover interior. Sew along this line with a 2.5mm stitch length. Lock your stitches at the beginning and the end.

That's it...you have made a gorgeous fabric book to store your embroidery thread! 

CONGRATULATIONS!!

When you buy more thread, just make another book :) 

Please consider purchasing from my Mosley Handmade shop. I'd love to send you something nice real soon!